Saturday 22 December 2012

Addicted to pleasure, *****

If you haven't seen this, I really recommend it. The whole series has been superb, gently sticking the knife into the idea of a beneficent British Empire, the Scots less than salutary role it and  how it affects us physically and materially to this day.

Brian Cox also gets to try some 'Scottish hooch' fresh distilled from an old Hebridean pot still, which few people get to try as it can't legally be called whisky until it's been matured for at least three years in an oak cask.

There is also a nice explanation of how the Scottish summer sun causes the spirit in the cask to expand into the wood of the barrel, thus acquiring some of the flavour of the cask it is stored in.

Addicted to Pleasure, Brian Cox in a tour de force look at the history of the Scottish Whisky industry.


Wednesday 12 December 2012

Nice wee exhibition at the Scottish parliament by the Scotch Whisky Association


 My flatmate works with the Scottish Parliament and told me about this. 

It is a celebration of  the Association's 100th Birthday. I Learned some interesting facts, for instance 'White Horse' is named after the White Horse Inn from where the coaches to London left in the eighteenth century. The Inn is still there, just up the road on the Canongate, must pop in for a pint some time..

 Also, did you know,  Scotland ships 40 bottles of whisky a second overseas. 

After looking round the exhibition, I went and watched the debate on Scottish science in the chamber. Apparently we are quite good at it, punching above our weight in terms of UK funding. We seem to have a problem with female scientists leaving the profession. There was some discussion of whether scientific evidence led to policy or policy led to to a scramble for 'evidence' to back it up. Alex Harvey, the leader of the Scottish Greens recommended a  a book called 'The Geek Manifesto', which sounded quite interesting. It was an interesting debate to listen to.

The debate was fairly sparsely attended. The rest of the MSP's came in at five to vote and after they left there was a wee debate on the Camphill communities that were set up by in Scotland by German Anthropsophical refugees before the war. They are now all over the world and do good work caring for young and old, with learning difficulties etc. It turned out to be an interesting afternoon.



Anyway  I took some notes on the exhibition, for those of you interested who can't make it along in person.

What is the Scotch Whisky Association?

In 1909, under Chancellor Lloyd George, taxes on whisky rose 30% to fund social reforms. This is the background against which the Scotch Whisky Association  was formed, rising taxes and consequent falling sales. 

In 1912 The Wine and Spirit Brand Association was formed. In 1917 this organisation changed its name to the Whisky Association. In 1942 it was renamed the Scotch Whisky Association.

The main functions of the Scotch Whisky Association are -

(1)   To protect the integrity of Scottish Whisky world wide.
(2)   To promote responsible attitudes to alcohol consumption.
(3)   To secure fair and equal access to international markets.
(4)   To tackle tax discrimination and help secure appropriate regulation of the industry.
(5)   To promote Scottish Whisky as a quality product made from natural raw materials.
(6)   To represent the Industry’s interests at Government level, both at home and abroad.

Facts and Figures

Scotland has the greatest concentration of distilleries in the world and Scotish Whisky is the most productive food and drinks industry in Europe. It employs 10,000 people in Scotland and a further 25,000 jobs are supported by the industry.


Forty bottles of whisky are shipped overseas every second.

United States 654 million bottles (up 31%)
Asia 318 million (up 44%)
Taiwan 155 million (up 44%)
Brazil 99 Million (up 48%)

Rising demand in both mature and emerging markets has resulted in export values increasing by an average of 10% a year over the last five years.

Whisky Regions

Today five main whisky regions are recognised-

Highland
Lowland
Speyside
Islay
Campbeltown


Difference between Grain and Malt Whisky

Malt whisky is made by the pot still process and grain whisky by the patent or Coffey still process. Malt whisky is made from malted barley only, while grain whisky is made from malted barley and other cereals.

Flavour

Many imitators have tried in vain to copy the aroma and flavour of Scotch whisky. The main factors are –

Water
Peat
The Scottish Climate
The cask

The exact reasons for it’s distinctive flavour remains a mystery, there is no universally accepted answer. However the Scottish climate is thought to be particularly important, particularly when the whisky is maturing, the soft Scottish air permeates the cask while it is maturing, eliminating the harsher elements to produce a mellow flavour.

Malting

Tradition meets science. During malting the barley secretes the enzyme diastase which makes the starch soluble for conversion into sugar. The barley is regularly turned  and germination is stopped by drying the malted barley, or green malt in the malt kiln. This process used to be carried out manually, at the distillery, on malting floors. Nowadays this process tends to be carried out mechanically in malting drums and often not at the distillery itself.


Distilling

The true art of distilling is only acquired over many years and is handed down from generation to generation.


Laws and regulation

The Scotch Whisky  regulations 2009 govern the production, labelling and presentation of Scotch whisky and prohibit and whisky, other than Scotch to be made in Scotland.

These regulations also state that for blended whiskies, the age displayed must be the age of the youngest whisky used in the blend.

Categories of Scotch Whisky

(1)   Single Malt
(2)   Single Grain
(3)   Blended
(4)   Blended Grain
(5)   Blended Malt

Recipe

 Only three ingredients

(1)   Water
(2)   Cereals
(3)   Yeast

But the production process is complex, combining tradition, science and innovation. It takes highly trained and dedicated people to make Scottish Whisky. Patience is also required. The production of whisky is an art form, not to be rushed, as generations of families who work in the Scottish whisky industry will tell you.

Maturation

For the distilled spirit to become Scottish Whisky it must, by law, be matured in an oak cask for at least three years, in Scotland.

By law, Scottish Whisky must be wholly matured in Scotland.

Scottish Whisky is often matured for much longer than three years.. Oak casks are used because they are semi-permeable and allow air to pass through, this is essential to the maturation process, the harsher constituents are removed and it becomes a mellow whisky. 

Malt whisky generally takes longer to mature than grain whisky and is often left in the cask for ten years or more. The period of maturation required depends on the size of the barrel used and the temperature and humidity of the warehouse.

The newly distilled spirit is a colourless liquid. Scottish Whisky derives much of its colour and flavour from the cask in which it is matured.

White Horse

White Horse Whisky is named after the White Horse Cellar Inn on the Cannon Gate in Edinburgh. This was the starting point for the eight day coach trip to London in the Eighteenth Century. At this time most of the leading brands would be sold under the founders names, White Horse stood out as the exception to this rule.

White Horse was registered as a Trade Mark in the UK in 1890 and in the USA six years later by Sir Peter Jeffrey Mackie. Peter Mackie realised the potential of brand identity to fire the imagination wherever it was sold.

Tourism and Marketing

The realisation of the tourism and marketing potential of whisky distilleries in Scotland only occurred in the late 1960’s when the first dedicated visitor centres opened. Since then, many distillery visitor centers have opened and make a significant contribution to the range of tourist activities in Scotland, welcoming over one million visitors a year.

The advent of Blending/ Whisky goes global

Around the middle of the nineteenth century blended whiskies were introduced to the market. This was a significant development in relation to both the branding and marketing of Scottish Whiskies. At this time Andrew Usher was leading the way in advertising blended Scottish whiskies in London and this paved the way for the opening up of overseas markets in the late nineteenth century.

The industry was hugely supported by the fashion for all things Scottish led by Queen Victoria. Early advertising capitalised on the association between Scotch and Scotland. The kilted Scottish soldier was highly respected by all levels of British and colonial society. An image of him communicated glamour, heroism, honour and tradition, a perfect combination of male virtues


The introduction of glass bottles

Whisky hasn’t always come in glass bottles. Initially it was obtained from distillers, distillers’ merchants or public houses straight from the still or cask and dispensed in stoneware flasks or jugs known as pigs.

Glass became more commonplace once it could be manufactured rather than being produced by hand. With the introduction of moulded glass in the 1820’s, it became much easier to standardise capacity.

The earliest know whisky bottles are from 1841 and are reused wine bottles often used by local grocers.




Friday 23 November 2012

An Independant Top ten..

Like this for the range of whiskies and price. Also the food reccomendations are interesting. I loved the Old Pultney 21 year old, my Birthday present to myself last year. The Asyla was this year's present, also very respectable.


Wednesday 21 November 2012

Glenkinchie




It is a strange anomaly that of the major malt whisky brands and distilleries so few of them are located in the Lowlands. The only other distillery of note in the Lowlands is Auchentoshan, which is to the north of Glasgow and draws it's water from North of the Highland line.






So if you want to try a real Lowland Malt, Glen Kinchie is probably the one. If you're visiting Edinburgh and want to visit a Scottish distillery, Glen Kinchie is probably also the one, being located in Pencaitland, about fifteen miles south of Edinburgh's city centre.







The Scottish Malt Whisky Society provide a nice bit of background at this link -

Glen Kinchie - Scottish Malt Whisky Society 

Anything in quotes is taken from this article unless otherwise stated.

Historically, we are in the Kingdom of Lot (from whence the region, Lothian, takes it's name). It is a lowland landscape with rich arable, barley growing land. To the south are the limestone Lammermuir Hills, the start of the Southern Uplands and the source of the hard clear water that flows into the Kinchie Burn, the source of Glen Kinchie's water.

A licence to operate a distillery at Glenkinchie was granted to George and John Rate in 1837 ('Kinchie is a corruption of the Norman name de Quincey, a family which once owned the surrounding land'). In 1890 the distillery was taken over by a consortium of Edinburgh Brewers and Distillers. In 1914 this company joined with other lowland distillers to form Scottish Malt Distillers which today is part of United Distillers. 

Glen Kinchie is now the Lowland representative in the United Distillers Classic Malts Range. 

Originally, the barley used for the malt would have been grown on the surrounding land and the casks matured on site. Nowadays, the modern world being as it is, the malted barley comes from Morayshire, prepared to the distillers 'lightly peated' specification. The three Glenkinchie warehouses are full and so the filled casks are matured in a huge modern complex in Alloa. 

'One thing is constant: the water that is drawn from the Kinchie Burn, Diamond bright and diamond hard, it rises in the Lammermuir Hills, running over rich limestone deposits. And the chalk makes Glenkinchie the driest of all Lowland malts. It is this water and this climate, drier and sunnier than the Highlands, which gives Glenkinchie and the other Lowlanders their quiet, distinct character. Lighter and drier than their Highland and Island cousins, the soft sweetness of the malt is allowed to come through.'  - Scottish Malt Whisky Society

Visiting the Distillery

I visited the distillery on a late October day, after one of the worst summer's we've had and we've had a few rotters in recent years. Even in the prosperous East Lothians, grain yields are down, potatoes left rotting in the fields.

Still, it was a beautiful autumn day. The distillery nestled in a dip in the landscape, with the Firth of Forth and Edinburgh to the North and the Lammermuir Hills to the south.



The distillery is brick built, Victorian, with a 'model village' in the same brick surrounding it. 

As the malted barley is now brought in from outside, the old malting floors are now used as an exhibition space. This includes a large scale model distillery showing all the various stages in the process  of creating a whisky. It's worth allowing an extra half  for your visit, to have a look round. My tour cost £6 and lasted about 40 minutes.





The Production Process

Both malting and maturing of the whisky now take place off site, the malted barley being  brought in by lorry four or five times a week,.

The production process is a batch process, using nine tonnes of malt at a time. First the malted barley is milled into grist and water, from a spring under the distillery, is added. This watery porridge is then heated in a stainless steel  mash tun  to between 76 and 84 degrees Celsius before being separated into wort and draft. 

The wort is the  sugar rich water to be distilled, the draft the solid wastes.The draft is used as animal feed  and the wort, with yeast added, is put into large  wooden tubs called washbacks, where it is fermented for about sixty hours until it turns into strong beer. 

The Glenkinchie washbacks are made from Canadian Larch or Oregon Pine.

The distillery uses two 30,963 Litre capacity washstills to convert the strong beer to spirit by a double distillation process. The Glenkinchie stills are the largest stills in use in Scotland. 

The first still produces low wines, which are 23% alcohol by volume. The low wines are then put through the second still and produce a liquid that is 70% alcohol by volume.

The Glenkinchie stills are not only large, but tall and the height contributes to it's distinctive light and gentle flavour.

The spirit from the second distillation passes through a Spirit Safe where the head (the first part) and the feints (or tail) are removed leaving the 'heart' of the spirit which will be watered down to 63% alcohol by volume.

To become Scottish Whisky this spirit must be matured in oak casks, for at least three years, in Scotland.

The casks used are either American oak ex- bourbon casks (which are reused for up to 50 years)  or Montellado sherry casks. For example a Glenkinchie whisky might be matured for twelve years in a bourbon cask, before being finished in a sherry cask.

Only 8% of the Glenkinchie production is used for the production of Glenkinchie Single Malts. The rest is used to produce blended whiskies. Johnie Walker, Dimple, White Horse, J&B are all whiskies that contain whisky from the Glenkinchie distillery. 

Tasting notes

Well, it was a long process to get a proper sit down and taste of the Glenkinchie. I bought a small, 20cl, bottle of the twelve year old when I visited the distillery. I spent that night with a friend in the Borders who had turned tea total and managed to leave the unsampled bottle at his house. He was leaving for Australia, but passed it on to a friend who lived in Roslyn. Suffice to say, I didn't reclaim it for a couple of months.

Tasting conditions, I would have to say were ideal. After a muddy, entertaining and tiring walk with a friend round Roslyn Glen, on a cold February afternoon and after a hearty wholesome meal of bangers and mash.

I found it a dry ('Protestant' I called it), spare kind of dram, not full of sherry flavours or sweetness - dry and cold like the day. Peaceful, it rounded off the day finely, a stick of shortbread as accompaniment would have perfected it.

I have a theory that a good whisky should convey a sense of peace, that relaxation of water that comes from sitting still in a quiet place for a number of years.

I really enjoyed this one, but then it was a particularly fine moment for a dram and I give it a rating of eight out of ten.








Thursday 25 October 2012

The journey begins..

I start this blog today 25th October 2012, the day of my 48th Birthday.

I registered the domain name scottishwhisky.com about ten years ago and it's time I made something of it.

I want to write about whisky, as an amateur and a neophyte and I want to make it journey of discovery.


You may ask what are my qualifications? 


Well first I don't work in and for the whisky industry, I have no particular axe to grind or product to sell. Any opinions given  will be honest and personal to me. If I do provide links to bars, or distilleries, or shops, they will be part of the interesting story I hope to tell. 


Secondly, I like the stuff, whisky that is, but not too much. I am a moderate and health conscious drinker and I like to think I have a good nose (Particularly for Bullshit, which I think might come in handy).


Thirdly I live in Edinburgh, Scotland. If Scottish Whisky has a capital city, this is it, full of fine whisky bars and home to The Malt Whisky Society. 


Fourthly and very importantly, I have a wee camper van, perfect for pootling about the Highlands, visiting distilleries,  seeing where whiskies come from, seeing what I can find out.

let's see where I go from here. I hope you can join me on my journey and I hope I enlighten, entertain and amuse you along the way.


Oh and I am sure I will be prone to make errors, if you know better than me, if I've made a mistake, please let me know and I will correct it.

Steve